It’s not a big a deal as wearing the wrong shade of foundation or over blushing, but yes, people with hooded eyes experience difficulties when it comes to applying makeup. But what are hooded eyes? As the name suggests hooded eyes feature an excess layer of skin, drooping over the crease. This extra skin makes the eyelid appear smaller and thus making it difficult to flaunt the gradients of a smoky eye or the cat-eye like someone with upturned or monolid eyes would.
The good thing is with a few tricks and hacks in your makeup application you can be able to flaunt your hooded eyes with no fear but favour. Check out tips for a natural makeup look
- Lift the brow bone
Shaped eyebrows are an important aspect of any makeup look because they frame the face. However, when you have hooded eyes, you want to concentrate on lifting the outer corner of your eyebrow as this draws away attention from the crease. An arch is always flattering as it lifts the eye. However, ensure that you don’t pull the tail way too downwards, as this will add more texture to the outer corner and thus add to the droopiness. Once you are done creating your desired eyebrow shape, highlight directly under the brow bone to enhance the overall lifting effect.
2. Prep and prime
Before you move on to applying any makeup on hooded eyes apply a primer to prepare the skin. The primer will set a clean canvas for your makeup, ensuring that the skin on your eyes doesn’t cake when you apply the eyeshadow. Priming is also important because it helps your makeup stay longer and vibrant.
Just in case you’re wondering what you can use as a primer, your options include, a concealer, an eyeshadow primer or a face primer.
3. Cut crease
Due to the layer of skin that droops over the crease, hooded eyes can tend to appear sleepy, tired or as if someone is sick. However, if you use a darker eyeshadow to cut the crease you will be able to make a separation, creating a bigger working area and the illusion of a more open eye. One thing to note is that the intensity or colour of your eyeshadow is not what matters while doing this. The placement does. Whichever transition colour you choose to use, ensure you place it slightly above the crease and diffuse it outwards to open up the eye. Once you have cut the crease proceed to the next step.
4. Blend
Instead of blending the eyeshadow downwards, sweep the brush upwards and outwards to lift the eye and open up the eyelid. Sort of like creating a wing. Place the dark eyeshadow on the outer corner of the eye to create the illusion of depth. This will even out the drooping crease masking the puffiness of the hooded eyes. Ensure that you do not drag the dark colours towards the inner side of the eye. Preserve that area for bright colours.
Do the same on the lower lash line, keeping dark colours only on the outward corners of the eye and bright colours on the inner corners.
5. Cat-eye trick
To create a smooth cat-eye, look down when applying the eyeliner. Draw a thin line extending the tail further past the corner of the eye. Ensure that the eyeliner doesn’t touch the hooded crease as doing so will cause smudging and also make the eye appear smaller.
Use a dark eye pencil only on the outer corners and a light/white one on the inner corners to keep the eyes looking bright and sharp.
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6. Mascara
You already know the conventional way of applying mascara and false eyelashes. However, when applying mascara to hooded eyes, there are a few pointers to bear in mind.
- Don’t fail to apply mascara on your lower lash line.
- Start applying mascara from the root towards the tips of the lashes to add more volume.
- Look down, or rather don’t look up until the mascara is dry as it will get on your crease.
- Waterproof mascara is better than a regular one as it won’t smudge or come off. At the end of the day, you can always remove it with micellar water
When selecting falsies, choose those with longer lashes at the centre than at the outer corners. Wispy eyelashes will also be more flattering than those with straight lashes from end to end. Individual cluster lashes are also a good alternative as they feel more natural than strip eyelashes. Beauty: A Guide To Picking The Right Eyelashes For Different Occasions
A few pointers to remember;
- Always prime the eyes to start then use a translucent powder to set.
- Highlight your brow from the arch to the outer corners rather than highlighting from the beginning of the brow.
- Rather than creating the conventional vertical ombre of light (lashline), dark (crease), light (browbone), create a horizontal dimension with bright colours on the inside and dark colours on the outside.
- If you are going for a cut crease look, place the transitioning colour slightly above your natural crease to lift the eye.
- Use gentle tapping motions to blend the eyeshadow rather than swiping the brush from corner to corner.
- Build on the colours gradually and soften the blend until you attain the desired intensity.
For more tips, check out the eyeshadow mistakes to avoid.
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